Food tour around
my hometown Gujo
Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets＆
eating around

Writer：minokamo (Akiko Nagao)

Food tour around my hometown Gujo minokamo

Share This Article

Eating around Gujo

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around01

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around02

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around03

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around04

After taking a train from Nagoya for around one hour, I need to take the Nagaragawa Railway from Mino Ohta Station to my final destination, Gujo Hachiman.

I plan to arrive at noon so I take the “Yurari-nagamete Seiryu-ressya 1-go” departing at 9:56am from Mino Ohta Station. The appearance of this train looks the same with others, but I finally noticed that this train goes slowly near the Nagaragawa-river so you can observe clearly! The first observation point is “Yunohora-onsen Station” to “Suhara Station” and the next one is “Aioi Station” to “Gujo Hachiman Station”, 9 points in total. I highly recommend to people who would like to enjoy the river scenery. Only one outbound and inbound train each day.

The 5th generation of
Higashi-no-kumaya

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around11

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around12

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around13

While I am still fascinated by the view from the window, the train arrives at Gujo Hachiman Station.

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around14

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around15

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around16

When I am heading towards my first destination, Jokamachi Plaza (Castle Town Plaza) ’s morning market, you can find shops selling Gujo miso and umbrellas in this old city. Turn left from Miyagesehashi-bridge, you can find Gohei-mochi shop “Higashinokuma-ya Okazuya” with a bear shaped signboard. Let me take a detour here.

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around17

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around18

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around19

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around20

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around21

Owner Ms Kanako Higashi welcomes me with a warm smile. A plate of Gohei-mochi (Rice cake with soy sauce and miso paste) with lots of miso paste comes out so quickly. What’s a nice flavor! This Gohei-mochi is full of walnuts with rich miso flavor. So yummy! I take a seat in front of the shop and start chatting with the owner.

This nice miso paste, with Gujo miso, wild sesame and walnuts, passed from the first generation to the 5th generation. That is why it tastes heavy and rich!

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around22

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around23

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around24

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around25

The owner Ms Higashi is born in Nagoya. She starts coming to Gujo for snowboarding and is linked by fate with the 4th generation. Finally, she decided to take over this shop. When she first started the business, the first owner came with worries. But she grew so well with help from the past owners and surroundings.

School students come to buy and say hello while we are chatting. Shops nearby also bend into the life of the people living here. High school students come to buy Gohei-mochi in summer and enjoy their mochi near the Shimizubashi Bridge.

I planned to have Gohei-mochi only at the first place, but after chatting with the neighbors, one beer for me please! While I am having my beer, a Gujo dance festival singer, Mr Naohiro Goto comes to the shop and tells me a lot about Gujo dance festival. He says they practice 4 to 5 times a month to protect the culture of Gujo dance.

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around26

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around27

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around28

Though I ordered beer today, you can find smoothies made from fresh vegetables and fruits from Gujo too. The great personality of Ms Higashi and tasty Gohei-mochi expand my circle around here.

The 5th generation of Higashi-no-kumaya See Shop Information

Castle Town Plaza

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around29

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around30

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around31

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around32

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around33

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around34

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around35

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around36

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around37

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around38

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around39

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around40

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around41

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around42

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around43

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around44

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around45

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around46

Castle Town Plaza

Finally, I arrive at my destination, Jokamachi Plaza. This bus terminal is connecting Nagoya-shi, Gifu-shi and Gujo Hachiman. You can get a Gujo sightseeing map here too. If you would like to enjoy walking around the city, you really need to get one!

Lots of local Gujo vegetables are available in this store. Farmers nearby bring along their farm products at around the opening hour 8:30am to 10:00am. If you want to get some of them, it will be better to visit in the morning. You can get vegetables throughout the year at supermarkets but here in this morning market, you can get the most seasonal vegetables. “Is there any potatoes today?” says the locals.

Plenty of souvenirs are sold in this shop. You can find local miso, rice, and even ayu (Sweetfish) in summer and Amago (Red spotted masu trout) here.

What draws my attention is Tenugui (Hand towel) used during Gujo dance festival. You can purchase standard item of each year and this year only item here too. It will make you happy when you bring it along with you during your stay.

Mr Shimizu, chief officer, recommend me this Japanese confections, “Mizu-no-shizuku”. When you are back home, cool it and you can taste the Yuzu flavor and semisolid soft texture.

Castle Town Plaza See Shop Information

Kinkado

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around05

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around06

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around07

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around08

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around09

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around10

After buying souvenirs, I continue walking around. I am drawn in “Kuzu popsicle” sold in an old Japanese confection shop “Kinkado”.

So many kinds of Japanese confections are displayed in the showcase. But I highly recommend this “Kuzu popsicle” to you. Peach, matcha, red beans, yuzu are available today.

It is made by frozen “Kuzuko (Arrowroot starch)”. It is cool and chewy. It will not melt easily so it is really perfect for summer! After this detour, I start heading towards my next destination when I am eating this Kuzu popsicle.

Kinkado View Google Map

Yamaneko Donuts

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around50

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around51

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around52

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around53

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around54

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around55

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around56

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around57

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around58

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around59

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around60

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around61

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around62

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around63

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around64

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around65

Yamaneko Donuts

You can find lots of spring water spots and irrigation canals around while I am heading to Yamaneko Donuts.

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around47

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around48

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around49

At the back of Former Hachiman Government Building Memorial Hall, you can find fish swimming in Igawa Lane. This lane was made during the Kanbun era (1661 – 1673) and managed by the residents all the years.

While walking around the old city, I arrive at “Yamaneko Donuts”.

Owner Mr Koichi Kobayashi greets me from the window. Lemon coconuts flavor, raisin flavor and cumin with shell ginger and other kinds of flavors are available here. All of them are made from ingredients that is good for your health.

They have ciders made from home-made enzymes. But I am going to try coffee this time. This coffee, called Maya coffee is from Guatemala made by the ethnic minorities. They use donkeys to carry from the top of high mountain to the ground. It is my first-time tasting coffee carried by donkeys!

Mr Shimizu is also a farmer making rice, vegetables and tea. That is why he cares so much about the ingredients!

Yamaneko Donuts See Shop Information

After eating so many in Gujo, it is time to go home. When I am heading to Gujo Hachiman Station, I find this “Sushi Ichiban”. This “Hoba sushi available” poster attracts me so much. I buy a box of Hoba (Magnolia leaves) sushi from the shop lady.

Hoba sushi can stay good till the next day so it is perfect for souvenir too. However, I feel hungry on the train and I cannot help nibbling some of the Hoba sushi. Spreading one of my Tenugui I bought during my trip and gazing the Nagaragawa-river. What’s a wonderful end of my Gujo trip! Every time I visit Gujo, I make more friends in here. Guess I need to plan my next trip very soon.

* Price listed on the article is as of June 2020.

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around66

Hachiman, Gujo Morning markets & eating around67

minokamo (Akiko Nagao)

Come from Minokamo-shi, Gifu-ken. Local food researcher, photographer, illustrator. Bases on her memory of making food with her grandma, she starts holding events and producing menus using local ingredients to connect food with people. She also produces receipts which can be found in all kinds of media, makes menus for local stations, collects local food data throughout Japan, takes pictures and do writings. As a photographer, she also designs new menus and provides styling. She uses food as a conductor to make happiness. She is running a serial about seasonal food on Gifu Shimbun.

Photographs by minokamo